Characterised by its high-shine finish and unique physical properties, this material has seen a notable resurgence in popularity. Stroll down any busy high street and you’re likely to spot someone sporting a patent leather trench coat or handbag.
So what exactly is patent leather? What are its key benefits? And how is it made? Read on to find out.
Contents
What is patent leather?
What is patent leather?
Patent leather is a high-gloss coated leather known for its shiny, mirror-like finish. It is water-resistant, low-maintenance, and often made using synthetic materials like polyurethane and acrylic.
Patent leather is a type of leather that has been coated with a glossy, high-shine finish, making it instantly recognisable for its mirror-like appearance. Virtually waterproof, it is renowned for being flexible, soft, and requiring little to no maintenance. These characteristics stem from the coating applied to the leather, which was historically oil-based but is now typically synthetic – usually a combination of polyurethane (for shine and rigidity) and acrylic (for flexibility). This sleek material is most often seen in black but is also available in a wide range of vibrant colours.
While patent leather has long been synonymous with luxury and grandeur – think designer shoes from French and Italian fashion houses – it’s now widely accessible and affordable. Falling production costs, largely due to advances in synthetic coatings and manufacturing methods, have made this once-exclusive material mainstream.
Advantages of patent leather
If you are debating whether patent leather is for you, please read the many advantages below. From its low maintenance care to its inclusive price point, it could be an option if investing in high-quality natural leather isn’t an option just yet.
Versatility
- Due to its pliability, patent leather is used in various products, from boots, belts, wallets and even bags.
- The uniform finish gives products a polished, modern look suitable for both formal and casual settings.
Signature, glossy appearance
- Instantly recognisable and adds a trendy, fashion-forward edge.
- If you enjoy the sleek aesthetic without the imperfections of real leather, this could be the one for you.
Low maintenance
- Requires no conditioning or speciality care products. This makes it super easy to use every day without having the headache of upkeep.
- A damp cloth and mild soap are usually sufficient to clean the surface. You can do this monthly.
Dirt resistance
- The lacquered surface prevents dirt from penetrating the material. This means less care time to keep the leather looking brand new.
- Makes cleanup easy and extends the lifespan of the item.
Waterproof
- The non-porous coating makes patent leather highly resistant to water.
- Great for products used in unpredictable or damp environments.
Price point
- Many items use synthetic leather bases, keeping costs affordable.
- The coating process uses vinyl, a much cheaper alternative to tanning natural leather– though it often lacks the durability and premium feel that high-quality natural leather provides.
Disadvantages of patent leather
Don’t get too excited – while patent leather offers a host of aesthetic and practical benefits, it isn’t without its limitations. Since the surface is coated in a synthetic plastic, rather than being an untreated natural hide, the material behaves differently from traditional leathers. Over time, this leather is more susceptible to scratches and discolouration, as it doesn’t develop the protective patina that natural leather does – here are some more of the disadvantages to learn so you can consider investing in a natural leather piece.
Discolouration and darkening
- Colour migration can occur when light-coloured items are stored next to darker ones.
- If you use your product in the sun, take note that UV exposure may cause fading or yellowing over time.
Prone to scuffs and scratches
- The shiny finish highlights imperfections – and trust us, the imperfections will appear.
- Light scratches may be buffed out, but deeper marks are often permanent.
Chemical odour
- This leather lacks the rich, natural scent of untreated leather.
- Instead, you could be met with a synthetic smell, due to the plastic coating.
No patina
- You won’t experience the development of patina since this product has an impermeable surface.
- If you want your bag to grow old with you, this could be an issue.
Can become sticky
- With time, the plastic-based coating may begin to break down.
- With the breakdown of the plastic, this can lead to a tacky texture. This could become significantly worse if you are using your product in a humid environment.
Creases and cracks are irreversible
- Once there is creasing, there is no going back. These types of cracks cannot ever be repaired.
- This tends to impact your product’s long-term appearance and wearability.
History of patent leather
Patent leather's origins trace back to 1793, when a Birmingham inventor named Mr Hand patented a method for producing flexible leather with a glossy, waterproof finish. This innovation was noted in The Bee, a British literary magazine, and is believed to be the source of the term ‘patent leather’.
Subsequent advancements included Edmund Prior's 1799 patent for a dye-and-varnish coating and Charles Mollersten's 1805 patent for a glossy chemical finish. However, it was American inventor Seth Boyden who significantly advanced patent leather production. In 1818, after examining a piece of European patent leather, Boyden developed his own linseed oil-based lacquer coating. He began commercial manufacturing in 1819 but notably did not patent his process.
The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the introduction of synthetic coatings, reducing production costs and increasing accessibility. A pivotal development occurred in 1937 when German chemist Otto Bayer discovered polyurethane, a polymer that remains integral to modern patent leather manufacturing.
Today, patent leather is often produced using synthetic or faux (imitation) leather bases, as the high-gloss coating diminishes the unique qualities of natural hides. This shift has made patent leather goods more affordable and widely available, while still retaining their distinctive shine and water-resistant properties.
Patent leather vs. natural leather
Although patent leather shares the same origins as natural leather, the two materials differ in form and function. Where natural leather breathes, evolves, and softens with time, patent leather is prized for its consistent, lacquered finish and water resistance. This section explores the key differences between these two materials to help you decide which suits your needs best.
| Feature | Patent leather | Natural, vegetable-tanned leather |
|---|---|---|
| Texture | Smooth, glossy, polished | Buttery-soft, somewhat oily |
| Durability | Resistant to dirt and water, but prone to discolouration and scuffs, and will degrade over time | Extremely durable, can last a lifetime |
| Used for | Predominantly apparel and accessories | Everything from upholstery to saddlery, briefcases, wallets and footwear |
| Price | Generally expensive | More expensive than inferior varieties of leather |
| Maintenance | Very easy to maintain | Requires semi-regular conditioning to prolong shelf life |
| Patina | No patina | Will form a patina over time |
| Smell | Chemical-like | Rich, earthy |
Alternatives to patent leather
While patent leather may appeal for its high-gloss finish and low-maintenance upkeep, it’s not the only stylish option available. Many consumers are turning to alternative leather types that offer a more textured, matte appearance and natural feel. Nubuck and suede are two examples – both velvety to the touch and rich in character.
Vegetable-tanned leather, PU leather, and other synthetic variants each bring their own pros and cons to the table. For instance, PU leather mimics the look of real leather but is more affordable and vegan-friendly, while vegetable-tanned leather boasts a beautiful, natural patina over time.
If you’re after longevity and sustainability, it’s worth exploring the full range of leather types or even reading up on how to repair cracked leather to extend the life of your favourite pieces. If you're unsure what to choose, consider the bag's material – patent leather offers waterproof qualities, while suede provides a softer, more premium feel.
Uses of patent leather
Many consumer goods are manufactured using patent leather. The shiny, luxurious finish of the material lends itself well to formal accessories, but it’s also leveraged to produce an array of everyday goods: outerwear, backpacks, belts, wallets, and watch straps to name a few.
Footwear is perhaps the most well-documented use of patent leather. As far back as the early 19th century, cordwainers (shoemakers) took advantage of the material’s lustrous appearance to produce upmarket dance and dress shoes. Patent leather’s association with opulence stuck throughout the decades. Men’s tuxedo footwear almost always features a glossy, patent leather finish. The signature stiletto heels designed by French fashion brand, Christian Louboutin, are renowned for their lacquered soles.
Patent leather fashion has once again been popularised by online retailers like ASOS and Zara, as well as haute couture behemoths; while Hermes designs and sells patent leather handbags, Coach creates luxurious tote bags and Valentino makes shoes.
Today’s cyclical fashion continues to be influenced by the patent leather hype of the sixties. It was a decade when miniskirts, knee-high boots, and trench coats made from the material played an important role in reshaping cultural values and women’s position in society.
How to clean patent leather
It is the morning after the night before and your treasured pair of patent leather Derby shoes are looking a little worse for wear. Thankfully, the layer of protective lacquer shielding all patent leather goods means they are relatively easy to clean. Many common household items – from petroleum jelly to kitchen oils and liquid soap – can be used as cleaning agents. There’s no need to replenish cracked fibres with a moisturising conditioner, as is the case with animal leather.
To clean your patent leather:
- Start by using a soft brush (never hard-bristled, as this could cause scratches) to gently remove any dirt or debris. Pay close attention to cracks and crevices.
- Prepare a cleaning solution by mixing a small amount of mild liquid soap with lukewarm water in a bowl.
- Lightly dampen a microfibre cloth and spot-test a concealed area to ensure no lint or colour is transferred.
- If the test is successful, gently wipe the rest of the surface.
- Allow the item to dry for 24 hours before the next use.
If you don’t have access to the above, mild baby wipes or pre-moistened wet wipes are two other practical solutions for cleaning patent leather. After use, remove any remaining surface moisture with a dry cloth or even a piece of tissue; otherwise, the moisture can stain and reduce the shine. Be sure to check the ingredients on the wipes to confirm they don’t contain any harsh chemicals.
For extra tough stains, we recommend applying a patent leather cleaner using a microfibre cloth.
How to get scuffs out of patent leather?
Scuffs naturally crop up on patent leather accessories when worn frequently, but often they can easily be buffed out. Try smearing a small amount of petroleum jelly on a microfibre cloth and then rubbing it in a gentle, circular motion over the affected area(s).
Allow the petroleum jelly to rest on the surface for around twenty to thirty minutes. Then simply wipe it off using a dry cloth, and the surface should be scuff-free. For significant abrasions, apply olive oil instead. Be sure to refer to this post for further information on the best oil for leather.
How to take care of patent leather
Patent leather is known for its high-gloss finish and appearance, but maintaining that fresh look requires the right care. Unlike traditional leathers, it doesn’t need regular conditioning but is prone to scuffs and dullness if neglected. With just a few simple steps, such as shining, storing, softening, and conditioning your leather, you can keep it looking new for years.
How to shine patent leather?
Arguably the best part about patent leather is that signature glossy, luxurious shine. To shine patent leather, we recommend investing in a dedicated patent leather cleaner. Apply a generous amount to a microfibre cloth, then rub it onto your product in circular motions. Leave it to dry for approximately five minutes – once the surface looks slightly foggy, it’s ready to be buffed. Use a clean, dry section of the cloth to polish the entire surface and restore its finish.
How to store patent leather?
Excessive exposure to UV radiation, such as sunlight, can cause patent leather products to become discoloured. So it’s important to store them away from natural light. That said, certain patent leathers are now finished with chemicals that promote UV resistance, so it's always worth checking this.
Interestingly, lighter-coloured patent leather – think shades of white and cream – can also absorb colours from other products. So if they’re sold with a garment bag, that’s always the best place to store them. Failing that, store them in a shielded space, such as a shoe tree, cupboard or drawer.
How to condition leather?
Conditioning patent leather helps preserve its softness and prevent cracks. Start by cleaning the surface with a dry or slightly damp cloth to remove any dust or debris. Apply a high-quality leather conditioner using a clean, soft cloth, rubbing it into the leather in small circular motions to ensure even absorption.
Let it sit for several minutes (or as directed), then buff the leather with a dry cloth to restore its natural lustre. Conditioning should be done every few months, depending on usage and exposure to elements.
How do you soften patent leather?
Patent leather is coated with a plastic-like lacquer, which gives it its signature shine but also makes it less breathable and more rigid than natural leather. To soften patent leather, avoid traditional oil-based conditioners, which can damage the finish. Instead, slightly warming the material with a hairdryer on the lowest heat setting can help make it more pliable. Just be sure to keep the dryer moving to avoid overheating in any one spot.
After warming, gently flex the leather with your hands and apply a small amount of patent leather conditioner or petroleum jelly to maintain flexibility and prevent cracking over time. Always test any product on a small, hidden area first.
How is patent leather made?
The production of patent leather begins with the conventional tanning of animal hides – a chemical process that stabilises collagen fibres to enhance durability, elasticity, and resistance to microbial decay. Once tanned, the leather enters a specialised finishing phase, where it is meticulously prepared for the application of a high-gloss surface coating that defines patent leather’s distinctive look.
Historically, this finish was achieved by applying multiple layers of oil-based varnish, a labour-intensive method that required drying each layer before applying the next. In contemporary manufacturing, this process has been streamlined through mechanisation.
Modern patent leather typically involves coating the tanned leather with a synthetic blend of polyurethane and acrylic. Polyurethane contributes to the hardness and high-gloss finish, while acrylic adds flexibility to prevent cracking. This coating is often applied using a curtain coating technique, where the leather passes under a flowing curtain of the liquid coating, ensuring an even application before being dried and cured.
This evolution in production techniques has allowed for greater efficiency and consistency in patent leather manufacturing, making it a widely available material in the fashion industry.
Takeaways on patent leather
Patent leather is celebrated for its distinctive high-gloss finish, water-resistant properties, and minimal maintenance requirements. Its sleek appearance makes it a popular choice for formal accessories and fashion items. However, it's essential to consider the material's characteristics and how they align with your preferences and values.
While traditional patent leather is crafted from real, high-quality animal hides coated with a synthetic finish, some modern alternatives are made using entirely synthetic materials. These ‘patent-look’ options offer a more affordable and vegan-friendly choice, but they often lack the durability and ageing characteristics of genuine leather. When selecting a leather product, it’s important to consider not only the sleek aesthetic of patent finishes but also the longevity, feel, and environmental impact of the materials used, especially when compared to full-grain leather, which develops a rich patina over time.
Is patent leather real leather?
Why is patent leather cheap?
Does patent leather last?
Can patent leather get wet?
Does patent leather crack easily?
Does patent leather stretch?
Is patent leather hard to maintain?
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